There is one good single pitch near the North entrance of Siq Barrah - Mon âme au diable  (which mean "My soul to hell"). It's a very well protected 25m 6a+ with 6 glue in rings and a belay on a thread. Another of Philippe Brass many creations, with his wife Claire Lemaignan. Best, is to reach it from the north by the drop off place Abu Tious. Climb up the rock steps to the West face of the Arch Tower, above the small siq linking to Barrah Canyon (S). The rock is a little crumbling, but the wall climbing remains very good. Further in the canyon when proceeding to the south, there is a hard multi-pitch climb on the west inside, bolted, but quite dirty on the first two pitches (6c and 7a+), and with equipment mistakes higher up - which explains why all these slings are hanging from the bolts... It is Kicia - 6 pitches, 130m, 7c. In Barrah Canyon there is a profusion of short and single-pitch climbs, but unfortunately all on trad pro except for the famous Drill Story in Um Daraj, just south of the Nabatean dam. An excellent tufa-like 7b, well protected by glue-in rings. Take 12 quickdraws and try to send it onsight - it's a test-piece! Done by local activist Philippe Brass with Alban Busatta. At the south end of the canyon and along on the left, there is a very short bolted slab... Nice and easy from what I remember.
single pitch bolted climbs Wadi rum

Up to date topo of Um Zelighe Wall (2019)

But the good place of that area is the popular Um Zelighe West wall - also called Therese Wall which stays in the shade all morning. It's the nearest klettergarten-like cliff to the village. First developed by Ataeq Aoudah, Omar Aoudah, Mohammed Hamad and Philippe Brass, then later by Andrea Andreou, and recently with Mussalam Sabbah. Beside the classic corner of Runner up (5c/6a trad.) on the left, and A Pale Moon Rising onto the right, there is a bunch of 9 fully bolted climbs from 5b to 6b+, well protected with rings and bolts. The rock is perfect for local standards. See the topo below. Take a 70 meters rope. The approach from the jeep takes only 5 minutes. Click here to view the photo - Um Zelighe wall, in Wadi Rum, Um Ishrin East branch

 Single pitch bolted climbs Wadi Rum

The Slovenian Cave, with two nice pitches

Good morning - 6b Relax & drink a tea - 6b
 single pitch bolted climbs Wadi Rum

Slovenian Cave in Wadi Um Ishrin East branch

The starting slab of Tira el diavolo per la coda (fully bolted P1 - 7c) has now two neighbors: Cry & Smile (girl's - 7a+- and men's - 7b - starting variations), quicly repeated by Amjad Sharhour from Amman Butljump, a 8c project?
 single pitch bolted climbs Wadi Rum

Diavolo slab is the start, P1, of that great and hard route

single pitch bolted climbs Wadi Rum

Cry & Smile on Diavolo Slab in Wadi Rum, Wadi Um Ishrin, Jordan

Laisser un commentaire