Again – Wadi Rum is not the paradise of bolted climbs, at least for the single pitches…
BUT, beside the two Klettergarden-like spots of Um Zelighe and Um Razzâ, there is a nice and small choice, even if it is too limited for such a large area. Frustrating?
I wouldn’t go back to the reasons for this situation, which is certainly the result of a mixture of practices, ethical choices, local history and priorities, which are rather expressed on the longer routes….
So, let’s go to the East, just few meters away from the N-S valley “highway” between Um Fruth reefs and Al Um Goor, only few hundreds of meters before Um Fruth bridge.
Two 20m well and fully bolted SW facing pitches :
– the attractive looking left one is a nice 5b/c
– the right one, more slaby, offers a tricky start at 6b/6b+. The rest is much easier.
The authors still remain unknown.
Now, let’s drive towards the eastern edge of the massif for a little visit to Al Um Goor smaller range.
Three long rocky ridges are separated by two very pretty valleys where it is pleasant to stroll.
On the West nose of the second ridge (coming from Um Fruth, Khushkhasha or Um Sabata), near the mouth of the valley beside, there is a hanfull of good single or two pitches routes.
Only one is bolted (hangers and glue-in rings), but unfortunately the first bolt is missing… No Taxes for a Friend – 50m, 5c, can feel hard for his grade. Possible belay half way up.
These routes have been opened by Philippe Gleizes and Ataeq Aoudah.
Location No Taxes sector-Al Um Goor, Wadi Rum
In the middle, the two climbers are on the bolted No Taxes for a Friend.
On the left is the crack of Two Friends, which has been originaly graded 6a trad, but is in fact much harder – 6b?
There is a relatively unknown place for climbers East of Al Um Goor, on one of the rocky hills before the steppe that marks the eastern boundary of Wadi Rum. It is called Al Zhola.
A pretty attractive wall, facing to the SW, with 3 steep bolted sport climbs. Again, some of the first hangers are missing… So, take some with you (for 10mm bolts).
I haven’t climb them yet, but they look pretty good.
Three SW facing bolted climbs in Al Zhola
* Round the corner on the left, little further and facing N (in the shade most of the day), a nice slab is framed by one clean finger corner crack and a straightforward slightly sandy hand crack.
Both climbs are nice and on good rock, but trad protected only with bolted stations on (only one bolt for the right one…).
Good potential for more sport climbs.
Now, jump into your “Bedouin taxi” and drive full West to reach the lovely spot of Um Razzâ on the opposite side of the range.
The Eagle Tower is a well known klettergarden, just at the entrance to Um Razza’s southern valley.
Your wheels literally hit the base of this Tower, which is densely equipped with about ten perfectly bolted climbs – from 5b to 6c.
A creation of Philippe Gleizes and Mussalam Sabbah.
Um Razza valley in Wadi Rum, Southern area
Now, you’ve located the Eagle Tower, spot the blank wall on the right of that photo.
This is where the hardest pitch of all Wadi Rum can be found to date!
It’s Wadirumela, and it’s 8b+, and it was the famous Slovenian Klemen Becan who did the FA.
Klemen Becan on Wadirumela, Wadi Rum, Jordan
Wadirumela 8b+, Um Razza, Wadi Rum. Have a look. It’s barely vertical…
And now, back to the North, to Khazali West side, en route for the village.
At the base of the Doug Scott‘s route “Crack of Cracks” (see T.Howard’s Guidebook), there is an excellent two pitch climb.
The first-one is brilliant, fully bolted with glue-in rings, on nearly perfect rock and just a short distance from the jeep. It’s Baba Sanfour, 6b. A must-do piece, in the morning shade!
The second pitch is completely trad, and leads you to the big ledges at the bottom of Doug’s route. From there, it is obvious to scramble down to the right.
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